Chosen Solution

2002 model 917.271653 17 HP electric start, Briggs and Stratton engine. Turned key on. Heard a small pop. Won’t start. Solenoid won’t click. Have power to the white line to the solenoid. Checked the solenoid separately by putting power to terminals and got connectivity across power terminals. Cable to starter and cable to ground has connectivity. Jumped starter from battery and it cranks. Turn key, won’t start. No solenoid click. No nothing. Any thoughts? Update (09/02/2015) I took the solenoid out and put power across the activating terminals by jumping from the battery. Then had conectivity across the power terminals. Checked the power cable from the solenoid terminal to the starter and the ground cable from the activation side to ground. Both good. Any ideas?

Norman Bailey, check these things first:"

  1. Brake pedal not depressed (safety Switch)
  2. Attachment clutch is engaged.
  3. Weak or dead battery.
  4. Blown fuse.
  5. Corroded battery terminals.
  6. Loose or damaged wiring.
  7. Faulty ignition switch.
  8. Faulty solenoid or starter.
  9. Faulty operator presence switch(es). What throws me off is the “small pop” you heard. Wonder if it could be a bad relay.

I had the same problem with my Craftsman LT1000 tractor. It wouldn’t turn over. I purchased a new battery, used it all day and the next time I went to start it, same issue. Took the battery back and they tested. Perfect battery. So I started looking into other possibilities. I noticed I smelled gas when this happened. It seemed like the engine was locked up. I took the air filter off and clamped the gas line and waited a while. Boom, it started. So I replaced the gas filter and installed a shut off valve on the gas line. As long as I remember to shut the gas off after using the tractor all day, I don’t have this problem. If I forget to shut the gas off, it locks up. Some kind of vapor lock. Hope this helps.

Howdy, replacing parts is not always the solution. In my case the issue described here is exactly my issue. I took Mr. O’Brien’s solution as the mower is a 2016 model and to have this stuff fail is a bit of BS, but perfectly suitable for a parts changer.

So I checked the FUSE and it is OK Changed the FUEL Filter and it is OK Checked Solenoid and it is OK Replaced Gas and it is OK Plug checks OK, gap OK Drained bowl, no debris, OK Battery is Sketch, but have had no further issues and is OK after strenuous start attempts What works is that on older models there is a FUEL SHUTOFF and as Mr. O’Brien recommended, I put a shut off in my fuel line before the FUEL FILTER and have had ZERO issues. SUMMARY The fuel line configuration from factory and after updating other components will yield exactly the same failure over time. Apparently there is a small amount of seep over time that causes the carb to flood even when the system is shut off and the throttle is pushed all the way off. This does not shut the fuel off completely, seepage of fuel into the bowl persists.

SOLUTION Added FUEL SHUTOFF valve and problem has not reappeared. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOs2Iwf9…

COST

Less than $5 typically. https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-6…

Am having basically the same problem on my 1998 craftsman 20 hp lawn tractor . It won’t do anything , no clicking ,no signs of electrical life . I’ve had a battery charger on it for at lease 12 hrs. I’ve tried putting the pos. lead of the charger on the solenoid posi. post still nothing . I’ve unplugged switches sprayed them with WD 40 still absolutely nothing . what are some of the signs of a bad ignition switch will you still have headlights to come on even though the tractor isn’t running . what are the signs of a bad relay do you have anything , any clicking etc. what about a bad fuse what are the signs of a bad fuse. note the fuse appears good . what about the switch interlock push in. anyone withe suggestion or answers if you had these same problems

On my Ariens, had the same issue, where, with a new battery, mower would not start, unless I jumped across the solenoid. Figured the switch was fine, because it would only start if turned on, and would power off when I turned it off. Had no idea there was a 20amp fuse in the mix. Replaced the fuse, dangling in a harness near the solenoid, and it started right up. So much better if it’s something simple, even it was still a pain.

I know this conversation is really old but I’ve been experiencing the same problem as everyone’s described. I’m not very mechanical savvy or experienced so I’m going to explain this by what I know lol. I realized the click or pop sound was coming from the part on the bottom of the carburetor that a wire connects into. When I pulled the carb and intake off originally to diagnose it with starting fluid into engine I realized that the carburetor was completely flooded with gasoline. I pulled the fuel line of the carb and realized that even when the acceleration/speed increase was all the way pulled down to the bottom, it constantly let fuel flow from the tank into the carburetor. The engine would crank but not start because of the carb being completely flooded out. I’m not positive how or why but I’m assuming the carb being flooded trips the sensor that’s plugged into the bottom of it and that causes the battery to drain while the mower is sitting. Somebody mentioned above about adding a fuel shut off valve and that’s exactly what I’m going to do instead of disconnecting the fuel line from the carb when finished mowing. Hope this helps!

I found this through google….Same symptoms….no pop though. I replaced my starter solenoid, in line fuse, ignition coil, and still nothing. I pulled the spark plug, and jumped the solenoid. Starter tried turning the motor, but no spark. Went back and looked at the wiring diagram one more time to see what I missed. You know what it was? My ammeter. The voltage wasn’t getting across the ammeter to the starter solenoid, starter solenoid to the ignition coil, ignition coil to the spark plug. Try jumping your ammeter if all else fails. I hope this helps someone further down the line.

We have a Craftsman riding mower. It cranks but want starts.

If your carb. Is flooding there is a needle valve connected to your float in the float bowl, when the bowl is full the float closes the valve to stop the fuel. You could have a little trash keeping the valve from closing completely and or it is worn and simply needs to be replaced…

Here is my problem, was mowing and it died. replaced the battery and fired up mowed forb3 minutes and died again. will bot start back and no power to starter. replaced blown fuse and still nothing. like no power to switch, lights wont even turn on. as i am not savy with a multi meter i am at a stand still. any help would be appreciated

I have had an issue where my mower starts no issue sometimes but then will not make a noise after that when I turn the key. I was convinced it was the seat sensors being intermittent because it would shut off as soon as I stood up no matter if it was engaged or not. I replaced and it doesn’t seem to work more consistently. i will try the fuel shut off or potentially an issue with the Engage sensor but was looking for any other suggestions.

I have a older craftman riding mower sometimes I can get it to start for 10 seconds then shuts off I have a new battery checks out ok.is it possible a fuel shut off problem or what else I am herm Update (07/19/2020) It won’t stay up more than 10 seconds

Read this > https://www.niftymower.org/Lawn-mower-ti… > it may give you an idea. Some engine have an adjustment for the magnet positions.

Take plug out and turn it over. If it turns over you have a issue with the compression. Have you tried jumping it with a car battery? I use to have to do mine all the time as the battery wouldn’t recjharge while running it? Bob

Noticed that one person mentioned amp meter never thought of that ? but no one on here has ever mentioned about the safety switches that connects everything so that there will be no spark only one person mentioned the safety switch on the seat being having problems with my craftsman 9000 26 hp Kolher changer coils module ingnition switch spark plugs battery checked and cleaned carb checked fuse since mine is got a pto electric switch . So I’m down to safety switches now hopefully this is it and did change rubbers on-gas tank and gas lines since they do rot away over time . Hope this helps and gives any of you’s an-idea. Thank you for your help on this stuff people.